Austin
Austin is famous for being the Live Music Capital of the World, with SXSW gaining the city international acclaim, something that is due in no small part to the hundreds of live music performances happening every single night. However, live music is not the only draw when considering a trip to Austin. It’s a fast-growing city which manages to keep a small town feel and encourages locals and tourists to “Keep Austin Weird” with its citywide mentality. You won’t necessarily stumble across Austin’s off the beaten track attractions, so here are my top alternative recommendations to add to your Austin itinerary.
1. Take a Stroll Down South Congress Avenue
With thousands of pairs of cowboy boots, quirky vintage stores, renowned coffee shops, independent dine-in’s and a multitude of cool bars, South Congress Avenue is at the heart of Austin’s subculture. Known as SoCo to many of the locals, the bustling strip is my favourite part of town and is the perfect way to spend a day in the city. I’d recommend starting out at Jo’s for a coffee, then making your way South to check out the incredible vintage and boutique stores, which line both sides of the street.
Allens Boots is a landmark on South Congress. Opening its doors in 1977, it holds over 4000 pairs of cowboy boots and numerous cowboy hats, clothing and belts. Even if you don’t plan on buying anything it’s an incredible place to look around and try on a few pairs of boots! Heritage Boot Co. also holds a large collection of handmade, vintage inspired cowboy boots with a bit more of an edge. One thing I realised very quickly is that Texan’s take their western attire very seriously and pieces do not come cheap, so for more affordable options I’d recommend Tecovas which was another really cool western store with a bit more of a modern feel.
A few other stores it’s essential you check out are the Old-Fashioned Sweet Shop, Big Top Candy, the custom hat boutique Maufrais and vintage shops Prototype and Feathers.
Before leaving swing by the fabled Continental Club for a drink and to catch some live music. Plus, if you are visiting between the months of May to October head to the Congress Avenue Bridge at dusk to watch the mass exoduses of 1.5 million bats from underneath the bridge, when they come out to hunt.
2. Eat at the Legendary Franklin BBQ
When in Texas, BBQ is taken extremely seriously, so much so, that people queue from the early hours of the morning at what is widely tipped as being one of the best BBQ joints in Austin – Franklin BBQ. Back in 2009 the founder Aaron Franklin started serving BBQ from a trailer and has sold out of brisket every day since he launched. The demand grew so much that he opened his permanent restaurant in East Austin, where hundreds of people line up each day to get a taste of his world-renowned brisket.
After hearing so much about this legendary BBQ spot, it was top of our agenda and we joined the queue at around 6am on a Tuesday (yes you heard that correctly)! Admittedly we slightly overestimated our timings and were first in line, but we were soon followed by other BBQ enthusiasts and ended up with over one hundred people behind us. The atmosphere in the line is definitely one of the things which makes the experience at Franklin’s so memorable. People travel here from all over the world, so you never know who you might get talking to, as you anticipate the feast to come!
The doors officially open at 11am and if you are lucky enough you will be greeted by Aaron Franklin himself. They serve a straight forward menu including brisket, ribs, pulled pork, turkey and sausage, which you can order by different weight quantities. Plus, if you visit on a Saturday they also have their delectable beef rib on the menu!
After hours of waiting, I’d definitely recommend getting a bit of everything to try, plus all the sides and the pecan pie for dessert! After tasting the brisket, you instantly understand why Franklin’s is so popular and on a personal note I must admit that I’ve never tasted anything quite like it, with meat so tender it just about melts in your mouth. But is the queue worth the wait? In my opinion the answer is 100% yes! Not only did the food taste even better after five hours in line, but the queue and the people which we met made for a one-of-a-kind experience.
3. Experience an Evening Like a Local in East Austin
From speaking with many locals whilst wandering around the city, East 6th came highly recommended as the place where the locals go to drink. Not to be confused with 6th Street, which is worth a passing visit but is definitely the more touristy part of town.
The East side of Austin is known for its lively local bars, craft breweries, authentic eateries and packed live music scene. If you want to experience Austin like a local, then this is the place for you.
My favourite spot was The White Horse, which is known to be one of the coolest honky-tonks in the city. We had to pay a small cover to get in, but were greeted by an awesome live band with loads of the locals on the dance floor. The atmosphere was brilliant with a diverse crowd of young and old people all enjoying the cheap drinks and a true Texas knees-up. They have live bluegrass, country & western and americana bands on seven nights a week, plus they even have whiskey on tap!
Other cool spots to check out in the area include Whisler’s, Lazarus Brewing, The Grackle, Yellow Jacket Social Club and Hotel Vegas.
4. Capture Austin’s Epic Murals
Around just about every street corner on the East and South Side of town, you will find incredible hand painted murals bringing colour and life to the streets. A few of the favourites I discovered were:
Til Death Do Us Part – Slightly off the beaten path, these two striking Skull and Crossbones by El Federico, connote undying love for one another inside a flaming heart. Location: Corner of Waller & E 7th St
Carlos Hernandez x Heritage Boot Co. – This amazing cowboy meets punk mural by Carlos Hernandez scales the whole side of a building on South Congress. The print of the mural can also be found on the Heritage Boot Co’s T-shirts which they sell in their shop just round the corner. Location: 1700 S Congress Ave A
Willie For President – A Texas musical hero, everyone loves Willie Nelson so the start of the campaign for ‘Willie for President’ sits proudly on the south side of STAG Provisions clothing. Location: 1423 S Congress Ave
I Love You So Much – Slap bang on the side of Jo’s Coffee on South Congress this is probably one the most visited street corners in Austin. The simple handwritten typography, makes for a great photo. Location: 1300 S Congress Ave
Greetings From Austin – An iconic spot and one which can’t be missed. You’ll find this picture-perfect postcard image painted on the side of Roadside Relics by its owner Todd Sanders. Location: 1720 S 1st Street
5. Eat Breakfast Tacos at Veracruz All Natural
Breakfast tacos are huge in Austin and Veracruz All Natural are known to serve up some of the best. They have a few locations across the city but for an original experience, I’d definitely recommend visiting their food truck in East Austin on Webberville.
Set up by two sisters from Mexico, who had a dream of owning their own restaurant, they take authentic ingredients and learnings from their Mexican heritage to create tacos like no other.
They serve an expansive menu including all the classics but the ones they are most famous for are their Migas and El Breakfast tacos. I would seriously urge you to get at least three (if not four) different options to try with one or two being breakfast based. They also have an awesome drinks menu with smoothies, freshly squeezed juices and loads of Agua Frescas. Plus, their homemade chips and salsa is a must!
6. Go Kayaking and Night Swimming in Barton Springs
Two of the more unusual and unexpected activities Austin has to offer are kayaking on the picturesque Barton Creek and swimming in the nearby natural spring-fed pool, known as Barton Springs.
You can hire a kayak, canoe or paddle board for the full day or by the hour from Zilker Park Boat Rentals, which is right on the edge of these tree lined shores. It’s super easy to hire the equipment and the staff were extremely helpful. We hired a double kayak and spent a lazy afternoon paddling down to Lady Bird Lake and back. Amazingly we were greeted by hundreds upon hundreds of turtles sunning themselves on submerged branches and rocks, which made for an even more memorable experience.
Just upstream you will find Barton Springs Pool, which is open daily at different times, so best to check their website before visiting. The pool is completely fed from underground springs and is around three acres in size. The amazing thing is, is that the pool is open until 10pm on some nights and was free to access when we visited. We visited at around 7pm on a weekday and pretty much had the whole pool to ourselves. I must admit it is a little chilly with the temperature averaging 20 Celsius, but you soon adjust when you get swimming and jumping off the diving board. If visiting during a hot summer’s day, I’d imagine it’s a very different story, but if you can visit during an off-peak time the experience is unbeatable!
7. Get a True Taste of Texas at The Mean Eyed Cat
The sign ‘Come In and Sin’ sits proudly above the bar at this beloved Austin establishment. Held dearly in the hearts of many locals, The Mean Eyed Cat certainly has to be one of the coolest bars I’ve ever walked into.
It’s partially famous for being the building which was once home to the Cut-Rite Chainsaw Repair shop, which was of course featured in The Texas Chainsaw Massacre 2, when ‘Lefty’ Enright visits the shop to purchase some saws. But it’s also known as being a rather good drinking hole with wonderful Johnny Cash memorabilia adorning the walls. A great fact which I discovered is that the bar itself is even named after his famous 1950’s classic – Mean Eyed Cat.
The ambience of the bar is deeply rooted in Texas culture and they have the acclaimed Metcalf BBQ on hand if you get peckish. A great spot to visit, to experience the Texas way of life. Yeehaw!
8. Pick Up a Cone at Amy’s Ice Cream
An Austin institution, Amy’s Ice Cream on South Congress is famous for their classic and rotating flavours. Ear marked by locals as the best ice cream in town, Amy’s manages to keep its quirkiness and small business feel with their walk up stand decorated in brightly coloured street art.
They serve up a vast array of delicious flavours including: ‘Mexican Vanilla’, ‘Zilker Mint Chip’, ‘Belgian Chocolate’ and ‘Shiner’ (which even contains alcohol!). In addition to their delicious ice cream, they are equally renowned for their crazy toppings. Personally, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a topping menu quite like it, with options such as: Chips Ahoy, Gummy Bears, Fruity Pebbles and even Graham Crackers to choose from. I had to go for the Mint Chip with added Waffle Cone pieces and it was hands down the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted. If you need one last taste before you leave, they also have an ‘outpost’ in the airport!
9. Spend the Night on Rainey Street
A quaint little back street tucked away in a corner of downtown, Rainey Street is lined with old Americana style bungalows dating from the turn of the century, which have been transformed into late night bars and live music venues. Perfect for relaxed porch drinking during the day and bar crawling by night, the street is filled with character and ‘Happy Hours’ galore.
There are almost too many places to choose from, but a few I would recommend are:
Lucille Patio Lounge – a relaxed vibe with a large patio at the back. (I ordered a whisky and coke here, which was around 95% whisky and 5% coke)!
Half Step – the spot to go to if you are serious about cocktails
Banger’s Sausage House & Beer Garden – known for their 100+ beers on tap and a whole host of BBQ sausages from their smokehouse
Lustre Pearl – a cool bar with live music and the famous Tommy Want Wingy food truck, which has developed a local following of cult status. We tried the buffalo wings and tenders, which come highly recommended.
10. Get Your Local Caffeine Fix
When in Austin coffee is just as big as BBQ and Tacos! A stop at a neighbourhood coffee shop either first thing or mid-morning is a great way to start the day and soak up some local culture first hand.
Four coffee shops really blew me away whilst visiting and these included:
Try Hard – a cool spot in East Austin with DJ’s spinning vinyl from the early morning
Better Half Coffee & Cocktails – serving the best of both worlds with an extensive coffee and cocktail menu
Jo’s Coffee – a staple for locals, this place is simply an icon on South Congress. Try their famous Iced Turbo!
Flat Track – an industrial style East side shop, where coffee and cycling merge
11. Enjoy the Stranger Side of Life at The Museum of the Weird
One place certainly keeping Austin weird is one man’s unusual, alternative and freakish collection of curiosities hidden away in the back of the Lucky Lizard gift shop on 6th Street. Museum of the Weird continues the tradition of the fast-disappearing dime museums of America, which were a movement away from highbrow exhibitions and instead designed to entertain the working-class showcasing, as they did, pieces of a much more shocking nature.
The museum features a whole host of oddities including a feejee mermaid, shrunken heads, two headed creatures, Egyptian mummies, mysterious skeletons and a cyclops pig. All this is enhanced with a creepy wax sculpture museum and an unnerving exhibit including the mysterious Minnesota Iceman…
If you enjoy the bizarre, macabre and stranger side of life then a stop at this fascinating independent collection is well worth a visit.
12. Head to your Happy Place at Peter Pan Mini Golf
A landmark in the Barton Springs area, Peter Pan Mini Golf has its rightful place in the local history books with it operating since 1948! The now retro-style course has been owned by the same Austin family from its inception and is one of the great institutions which ‘keeps Austin weird’.
You’ll find two 18-hole courses to choose from, we went for the one with the roaring T-Rex trampling over the putting green and loved all the vibrant whacky sculptures on display. We unexpectedly stumbled across this on our walk down to Barton Springs Pool and I’m so glad we did, as it was a completely impromptu activity, which ended up being extremely entertaining!
13. Drive out to the Old West Town of Lockhart
Finally, if you have time, I’d highly recommend a drive out to Lockhart which is only around 30 minutes away by car. This quaint old west town is known all over the state as being the BBQ Capital of Texas with three legendary spots including Black’s Barbecue, Kreuz Market and Smitty’s. Alongside the food, take a wander around the market square and check out the western style stores including the incredible Old School Leathersmith shop where you will find custom belts and accessories.
Thanks for reading!
Make sure to tag me on Instagram @thealternativeguide_ if you visit any of the places I have recommended or if you find any other off-beat locations in Austin, as I love seeing the places you have visited and sharing them with the wider alternative travel community!