Paris
Paris may be one of Europe’s most visited cities, but it holds many hidden secrets and alternative locations which are off the beaten path, all there just waiting to be discovered. Overflowing with gothic architecture, beautiful cemeteries, antique flea markets, abandoned railways, vintage bookshops and much more, Paris is the perfect destination to explore if you enjoy cities with a dark side. If you do, then read on to discover my Top 13 Alternative Things to Do when visiting the French capital.
1. Stay at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide
Hidden away amongst the cobbled back streets of Montmartre, you will find the quirky boutique hotel of Monsieur Aristide. This 19th century Parisian guest house offers beautifully decorated interiors in its 25 bohemian styled rooms. As you walk into the majestic lobby you are welcomed by a sixties retro Wurlitzer juke box, antique furniture sourced from local flea markets and leafy green surroundings.
Some of the rooms also have their own private gardens, which can be seen from the Mediterranean terrace at the back of the hotel. I was solo travelling on this trip so opted for the Classic Double room, which had a large balcony window overlooking the picturesque bustling street below. The room was well designed and included nice touches like an antique radio, old fashioned telephone and vintage sheet music displayed as artwork. The hotel certainly encompasses a ‘bohemian spirit’ through its artistic and musical atmosphere, which made for the perfect unique stay whilst in Paris.
If you are thinking of booking a stay please consider supporting the site and using my affiliate link below.
The Alternative Guide is reader-supported, please note I may earn commission through links on my site at no additional cost to you.
2. Get Spooky at Les Catacombes de Paris
Deep down in the depths of Paris you will find the exceptionally spooky, yet extremely monumental Paris Catacombs. Since opening to the public in 1809, the Catacombs have aroused the curiosity of hundreds of thousands of visitors with its legends and secrets firmly buried underground.
During the late eighteenth century, the over-populated cemeteries of Paris such as ‘Les Innocents’ became a public health concern and it was decided that the bodies from the problem cemeteries should be exhumed and moved to an underground quarry outside of the capital. In 1786 the site was named as the “Paris Municipal Ossuary” but soon took on the fabled name of the Catacombs. In 1809 the site was opened to the public by appointment only and due to the lasting fascination of seeing millions upon millions of bones all housed in one place, the catacombs are now open to all and average around half a million visitors per year.
As you enter you will walk down a spiral staircase of 131 steps to access the 1.5km labyrinth of quarry tunnels. The audio guide is truly brilliant and takes you through the entire history of the Catacombs, as you explore the site for yourself. The skull and bone lined arches are honestly unbelievable, due entirely to the sheer amount of exhumed bodies which now lay here. It took me around one hour to complete my tour and for parts of my journey I was completely alone, which really did make for an even spookier experience than I was expecting!
Tip: Make sure to purchase tickets online in advance as they do not sell them on the door. Slots fill up quickly so book as soon as tickets are released (seven days prior to your preferred date).
3. Make a Memorable Visit to Père Lachaise Cemetery
One of my favourite places to visit in Paris has to be Père Lachaise Cemetery. It’s hauntingly wonderful with thousands of medieval tombs which span large sections of the burial ground. This famous necropolis was built in 1804 to replace unsanitary parish cemeteries and was landscaped to create the first garden cemetery in Paris.
If you enjoy dark academia spots, then you will find the history of this cemetery truly fascinating with a multitude of famous names buried here including the famous Irish playwright and poet ‘Oscar Wilde’, 1960’s rock star and enigmatic frontman of The Doors ‘Jim Morrison’, the world’s greatest jazz violinist ‘Stephane Grappelli’ and possibly the most famous French singer, lyricist and actress of all time ‘Edith Piaf’. Although the most interesting part of the cemetery in my opinion is the oldest part, with gothic head stones and bewitching mausoleums lining the maze of cobbled paths.
When I visited at 8am on a weekday morning I pretty much had the whole cemetery to myself and I certainly enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere, but beware, this cemetery is known to be one of the most visited in the world with more than 3.5million visitors annually so I would recommend saving your cemetery wandering to off-peak hours if possible.
4. Eat Like a Local at Le Marché des Enfants Rouges
Located in the 3rd Arrondissement, you will discover the oldest covered food market in Paris, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, which translates to ‘The Market of the Red Children’. It took its name from an orphanage originally located next door, which was known for dressing all their children in red coats.
The market includes a whole host of delicious street food vendors, fruit and vegetable stalls and traders specialising in local delicacies. It’s the perfect authentic Parisian spot to visit for lunch, with a great local energy and atmosphere. I have to say I really enjoyed the counter style dining set up of the different independent street food outlets, with people dining al fresco during their lunch break from work. It’s a great place to get a taste of the local way of life as well as trying out some speciality dishes.
5. Explore the After Squat of 59 Rivoli
On one of the main shopping streets of Paris you will find this unusual treasure, which doesn’t quite fit in with its surroundings. In 1999 the deteriorating building known as 59 Rivoli, was illegally claimed by a group of artists, who then staged exhibitions to celebrate their creative freedom. These ‘Happenings’ ended up attracting thousands of visitors per year until the building fell into disrepair and the city of Paris had to step in to carry out renovations.
The six-floor space reopened in 2009 and still manages to be a central point for counter culture in Paris, with its wild creative and chaotic feel. The building now houses over 30 different artist studios, which you can happily wander around at your own leisure. As a keen artist myself it was fascinating to be able to enter into other artist’s studio spaces and see them working on their new creations, whilst enquiring about both their methods and their work.
Tip: It’s free to get in but a donation on the door is recommended!
6. Get Cosy in Merci’s Used Book Café
If you are looking for a place to get extra cosy, then look no further than Merci’s Used Book Café. In this quiet coffee shop you will find the walls lined with bookcases, providing a home to thousands of second-hand books, which are available to read and even purchase, if you want to take some home with you.
The café offers a delightful homemade vegetarian menu, with a lovely selection of cakes, salads, quiches and scones. One of their bistro style classics is their soft-boiled eggs and toast sticks which I opted for, whilst flicking through the books and partaking in a relaxing lunch break.
7. Visit Pierre Bazalgues’ Dark Academia Cabinet
Marche Paul Bert-Serpette is one of Paris’ legendary flea markets and one of the largest antique markets in the entire world. The market is a labyrinth of outdoor alleyways and indoor holdings, housing over 200 unique antique stalls offering everything from furniture, objet d’art, silverware, jewellery, clothing and more.
The main reason for my visit was to hunt out Stand 221 on Allee 4, a dark and mysterious stall owned by Pierre Bazalgues. Pierre’s macabre curiosity cabinet provides a fascinating reflection on the concept of death, with many skeletons, medical specimens, obscure objects and neogothic artifacts for sale. The macabre oddities and unusual antiques in this library of dark academia attract many artists and collectors and it provides a completely unique offering to the market and its visitors.
*Please check this location before visiting as it may now have closed.
8. Walk Down the Abandoned Railway of Petite Ceinture
Sssh! This is probably one the of the best kept secrets in all of Paris. The Petite Ceinture, which translates to ‘the little belt’ is an abandoned railway line dating back to the 19th century. It used to loop 30km around the city and transport travellers between the main railway stations, but eventually become redundant due to the popularity of the Metro. The rusting tracks are now left overgrown with wild flowers and wildlife and have mainly been left untouched.
Some of the railway has now been opened to the public and there are different locations around Paris where you can access the line. I found the best to be from the café La REcyclerie in the 18th arrondissement and other sections which are listed include:
- A nature trail in the 16th arrondissement between Porte d’Auteuil and Gare de la Muette
- Parc Georges Brassens in the 15th arrondissement
Please note it is illegal to access some parts of the line but if you can make it down to the right parts it’s a brilliant alternative walk to carry out whilst visiting.
9. Release your Vintage Book Worm at Shakespeare and Company
The iconic Parisian indie bookstore of Shakespeare and Company was opened in 1951 by an American called George Whitman and became a historic base for many writers especially Ginsberg, Kerouac and those of the Beat Generation. Famously Whitman would welcome in any struggling writers needing a place to sleep under the conditions that they read a book a day, helped in the shop for a few hours and produced a one-page autobiography. Whitman coined the term for these guests as “tumbleweeds” wanderlust travellers blowing from place to place, relying on shelter from strangers.
Amazingly the tradition still lives on with as many as 40,000 tumbleweeds now having slept in the bookshop to date. If you are interested in staying you can get in touch with the bookshop directly via email here. This literary hub is located in a busy area opposite Notre-Dame and tends to be extremely busy on weekends so I would advise visiting early or late in the day if possible. Then after getting lost in first additions, head next door to their coffee shop to enjoy reading your new purchases!
10. Try Out the Pastries at Du Pain et des Idées
With French pastries renowned the world over, the question I know everyone is asking is…who does the best in Paris? The answer is subjective especially with locals, but one bakery in particular always seems to standout for its award winning rustic loaves and to die for pinwheel escargot pastries, Du Pain et des Idées.
The beautiful late 19th century design of this institution makes you feel like you are stepping back in time and the hand painted ceiling, grand mirrors hanging on the walls and ornate decoration, ensure the pastries on display look even more wonderful.
I made sure to get here early so I didn’t need to queue for very long and after much deliberation decided to opt for their signature chocolate-pistachio escargot, which was extremely delicious. If you can, grab a seat on the bench outside and soak up some local Paris street culture whilst you eat!
Tip: Visit during a weekday as it’s closed on weekends.
11. Spike your Curiosity at Deyrolle
Deyrolle has to be the most unusual shop I have ever stepped foot in! It was founded in 1831 by French Naturalist and natural history dealer Emile Deyrolle and specialises in an extensive and bizarre mix of exotic taxidermy and entomology. Take the wooden staircase to the upper floor to be greeted by a vast array of preserved mammals including a polar bear, lions, zebra and birds just to name a few. Towards the back of the store there are also cabinets overflowing with beautiful species of butterflies and insects to admire close up in detail.
The store has spiked curiosity of Parisians and tourists for many years with artists such as Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali even visiting to seek inspiration. Please note that all the animals have been donated by either zoos or parks after the animals have died from natural causes. All the items are available to rent and some are even for sale, but come with a rather large price tag! Unfortunately, they don’t allow you to take photographs in the store but trust me this needs to be on your Paris must visit list if you enjoy seeing rare species, it’s almost like a mini Natural History museum in the heart of Paris!
12. Stop for Coffee at La REcyclerie
Housed within an abandoned train station on the Petite Ceinture railway line, La REcyclerie is a beautifully creative café, which concentrates on sustainability and eco-friendly offerings. The vast open space, is full of light and upcycled furniture and feels like it has been reclaimed by nature with a vast array of plants festooning the walls.
Not only do they offer a locally sourced menu, but the multi-purpose space also puts on various DIY style events including flea markets, workshops and screenings, so make sure to check out their website before visiting. La REcyclerie is a true hidden gem and as I highlighted earlier, it’s one which allows you to walk down to the old railway beltline where you can sit out in a deck chair if the weather is nice.
13. Treat Yourself at Les Choupettes de Chouchou
Nestled in the backstreets of Montmartre you will find a tiny little bakery called Les Choupettes de Chouchou. If you haven’t tried a chouquette before it’s a mini choux pastry puff stuffed with whipped cream and topped off with sprinkled pearl sugar.
These unique delicacies are synonymous with the traditional afternoon snack of many Parisian school children, with Les Choupettes doing their own take on the childrens’ favourites, changing the name to Choupettes, and filling them with home-made chantilly cream in four different flavours: the classic, cocoa, lemon and coffee. I ordered a box of eight with all the different flavours to try and what’s more, they are prepared to order right in front of you, making them even more mouth-watering!
Make sure to tag me on Instagram @thealternativeguide_ if you visit any of the places I have recommended or if you find any other off-beat locations in Paris, as I love seeing where you have visited and sharing them with the wider alternative travel community!