Bergen
Bergen is an extremely picturesque city that has stayed faithful to its Nordic history and charm. It’s perfectly located between seven mountain ranges and spectacular fjords that provide extraordinary views and endless scenery to explore. What appealed to me most was the thriving alternative culture which the city possesses and the unique places and street art we discovered along the way.
24 Hours
Zander K Hotel
After browsing the internet to see what was available we opted for the Zander K Hotel which is located just a stones throw away from Bergen’s Central Station. This was a great location for us after we had taken the seven-hour train journey from Oslo and after leaving the train, it allowed us to quickly get settled at the hotel.
The hotel is known for its contemporary Scandinavian construction, which is attributed to the renowned architectural partnership of Claesson Koivisto Rune. I really enjoyed the minimalist feel to the rooms and the stylistic design choices, which made it feel spacious even though their standard rooms are quite compact. The ‘all you can eat breakfast’, which is also included in the price was incredible, serving everything you could possibly want to start your day on a great note. I would highly recommend the hotel to anyone wanting a stylish stay whilst in Bergen!
If you are thinking of booking a stay please consider supporting the site and using my affiliate link below.
The Alternative Guide is reader-supported, please note I may earn commission through links on my site at no additional cost to you.
Fløyen
When I’m about to explore a new city, one of my favourite things to do first is to get up high and take in some magnificent views of the landscape. It’s a great way to get acquainted with the geography of the place and you get a real feel for the city you’re in. Does anyone else do this, or is it just me?
In Bergen Mt. Fløyen is the perfect place to do just that, as at its peak you are a soaring 400m above sea level. I would recommend taking the roughly 45-minute hike to the top but if you feel that might be a bit daunting, you can also take the Funicular which only takes around eight minutes (although this wasn’t running when we visited, so make sure to check ahead).
The hike does have its advantages however, particularly with the beautiful photo opportunities you encounter as you meander through the magnificent forest and winding pathways. I would however recommend wearing hiking boots if you can, as it does get quite steep in parts!
When you get to the top, take your time to look out over the phenomenal cityscape, charming harbour and breath-taking fjords. Whilst up there we took time out for a hot drink from the cosy little Fløistuen Café where we relaxed before making our decent. One thing we didn’t realise is that there is an alternative trail back down, which takes your through an enchanted Troll Forest, so that’s one to keep in mind if you visit!
Bryggen
Once you have reached lower ground again, head towards Bryggen, (which is more commonly known as The Old Wharf of Bergen), to admire one of the most photographed waterfronts on the planet. The area is home to some of Bergen’s oldest buildings and is a reminder of the town’s trading history, as it played its part as an influential port in the Hanseatic League’s Empire between the 14th to the mid 16th Century. The wooden architecture has been ravaged by many fires over the years but has been sympathetically rebuilt each time to mirror its former glory.
Once you have taken your picture postcard shot of the iconic coloured houses, head into the diagonal wooden alleyways, which are now home to a multitude of local shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants.
Since 1979 the area has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and really must be explored when in Bergen. I enjoyed wandering through the unusual and magical walkways where you can take some beautiful photographs of the historic architecture and watch local traders go about their daily life. If you are ready for a coffee and classic cinnamon bun, then you have to stop by the lovely and extremely friendly Kaf Kafe. It’s a great spot to take in the atmosphere, whilst enjoying what’s recognised by locals as ‘some of the best coffee in town’.
Lunch
If you want to sample some of Norway’s freshest seafood then there’s only one place to head for lunch and that’s the indoor Fish Market. Even if you don’t end up eating here it’s incredible to walk around, with over 30 independent fishmongers and eateries serving up the finest local produce.
I’ve never seen so much seafood under one roof and was amazed by how many unusual species are on display. If like me you can’t decide what to opt for, then you really can’t go wrong with some freshly boiled shrimp for lunch.
Another great option is the legendary hot dog stand called Trekroneren, which has been operating for decades. They specialise in local meats provided by a nearby butcher and offer a wonderful selections of toppings to choose from.
Fantoft Stave Church
Next, we’re heading out of the city centre, to admire the iconic blackened architectural design of Fantoft Stave Church. You are able to get there by the Bergen Light Rail (Skyss) departing from the stop ‘Bystasjonen’ (located just near the railway station) and the journey to ‘Fantoft’ takes around 15 minutes. Then it’s only a short 10-minute walk at the other end to the church itself.
Fantoft Stave Church was originally built in the village of Fortun around the year 1150. In 1992 the church was burned down in what would be the first in a number of church burnings by members of the emerging Norwegian Black Metal Scene.
Varg Vikernes was found guilty of burning down multiple churches across Norway and although he was charged with the burning of Fantoft Stave Church, he was found not guilty by the jurors. The judges believed this to be an error but did not overturn the decision.
Perhaps they realised the error of their ways when a photograph of the Church’s burnt shell appeared on the cover of Varg Vikernes own band’s, Burzum’s EP ‘Aske’ (which translates to ashes). After the fire the rebuilding of the church soon commenced to replicate its original design.
I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was and we spent a good hour here taking photographs and admiring its intricate carvings and elegance.
We visited out of season, so weren’t able to see inside, but in the summer months you are able to explore the interior as well.
Street Art
Head back into town to check out Bergen’s thriving street art scene. There are pieces scattered across the city including works from artists such as Dolk, AFK and TEG, but if your time is limited, head to Sentralbadet to see one of Bergen’s only legal street art walls. Also, an interesting fact is that in 2000 Banksy created several pieces across the city’s walls which went on to inspire other local stencil artists, but unfortunately the government at the time had a zero-tolerance policy towards graffiti and all his work was subsequently removed.
Pingvinen
I can’t give a better recommendation for dinner than the truly Norweigian style local, Pingvinen (translating to The Penguin). Based just a short walk away from the street art wall on Vaskerelven, they offer a range of excellent traditional style dishes which are nothing short of delicious.
It has got a wonderful authentic laid-back vibe enhanced by an extremely friendly service, which instantly makes you feel welcome when you walk through the door. The seasonal menu consists of a range of speciality home-cooked meals that could easily have been made by your grandparents (if they were Norwegians)!
We started with the cheese platter, featuring a blue cheese which has won several awards and a soft white cheese, which was made by monks in Trondheim. Let’s just say it was some of the best cheese we have ever eaten!
Then for our main we both went for the Plukkfish with bacon, potatoes and flatbread which genuinely exceeded all of our expectations; we just couldn’t believe how such a simple dish could taste so flavourful. To add to our enjoyment, the portion sizes were extremely generous too!
Tables can fill up here fast so I would recommend to book at least a day in advance. It’s also open until 1am so make sure to stick around and enjoy some beers with the locals after your meal.
Apollon Platebar
I can’t think of a better way to end the night than in Norway’s oldest independent record store, which also doubles up as a craft beer bar… can it get any better than that? We loved hanging out in here, rooting through the endless amounts of rock and metal vinyl whilst enjoying a few of their local brews from a wonderful selection of 35 or so beers. Apollon is a truly unique institution in the Bergen music scene, which, as I said earlier is the perfect place to end your day!
If you have travelled to Bergen before or if we’ve whetted your appetite and perhaps you’re now dying to sample this wonderful place for yourself, let me know!
Make sure to tag me on Instagram @thealternativeguide_ if you visit any of the places I have recommended or if you find any other off-beat locations, as I love seeing the places you have visited and sharing them with the wider alternative travel community!