One of Munich’s smallest yet most extraordinary churches, Asamkirche is a stunning jewel of late Baroque architecture. Tucked away behind an intriguing doorway on Sendlingerstraße, it’s easy to miss amid the mundane storefronts unless you know precisely where to look.

Built between 1733 and 1746 by the visionary Asam brothers, Cosmas Damian, a painter, and Egid Quirin, a sculptor, the church was never intended for public worship. It was conceived as a private chapel, a personal sanctuary of devotion and artistic expression. The brothers purchased four adjoining houses and demolished the central two to create this architectural marvel. Officially named the Church of Saint Johann Nepomuk, it is more commonly known as Asamkirche in honour of its creators.

Despite its limited size (with a floorspace of only 22 × 8 metres), the church is a remarkable example of late Baroque spatial design and Rococo exuberance. Educated in Rome at the prestigious Accademia di San Luca, the brothers drew inspiration from the theatrical grandeur of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Every inch of the interior has been unapologetically overindulged with opulence, rich ornamentation, and extravagant gilded touches.

As you step inside, you are greeted by a golden‑cloaked skeleton, poised mid‑motion, scissors raised to sever the ‘Thread of Life’ held by a cherub, while a scythe rests ominously across its back. This visceral portrayal of memento mori acts as a chilling reminder that death can strike at any moment, regardless of innocence or beauty.

Beyond the wrought‑iron gates, the church unfolds vertically into three symbolic realms. The shadow‑laden lower level represents worldly suffering, where skulls and carved reminders of mortality lurk beside the pews. The middle tier, dominated by imperial blue and white, signifies divine rule and is reserved for the Emperor, whilst the uppermost realm, radiant and ethereal, is dedicated to God and eternity.

The dramatic ceiling fresco, painted by Cosmas Damian Asam himself, spans the entire nave and narrates the life of the church’s patron, Saint Nepomuk. This theatrical piece guides the viewer from darkness to salvation. In the depths of the fresco, the world is cloaked in shadow, while at its peak angels burst from luminous clouds in radiant glory and celestial hues create a crescendo of divine splendour.

Light and shadow have been seamlessly incorporated into the design. Hidden windows allow sunlight to animate the interiors and cast golden tints that give an ethereal glow. It’s wonderful to see how the Asam brothers didn’t shy away from darkness – they elevated it, reminding us that light finds its true significance only through contrast. Using the technique known as chiaroscuro, the dance of light and dark heightens the exquisite ambience and sacred drama.

Originally designed as a Beichtkirche, a confession chapel for youth, Asamkirche features confessionals carved with scenes of Death, Hell, Judgment, and Heaven. One panel depicts St Peter directing the damned toward Hell whilst another portrays the Last Judgment, each rendered with unsettling precision.

The high altar holds a glass sarcophagus containing the wax effigy of St John Nepomuk, the martyr of silence and secrecy. Swirling columns and gilded ornamentation frame the shrine, a symbolic reminder of the fragile veil between life and death. With so much detail layered into every surface, it’s worth sitting quietly in the pews for a while and letting the details reveal themselves slowly.

Though intended as a private retreat for the Asam brothers, mounting public pressure eventually forced them to open the chapel to the city. Today, it still welcomes visitors to step inside the Baroque reverie, steeped in shadow, symbolism, and golden silence.

Tip: Don’t miss the carved hanging skeleton on the wooden front doors as you enter!