Within the poetic, ivy-draped grounds of Alter Südfriedhof, (translating to Old South Cemetery), countless weatherworn gravestones, crumbling tombs and time-stained mausoleums lie nestled among the trees. Founded in 1563 by Duke Albrecht V as a burial site for victims of the Black Death, its location just beyond the city walls was a deliberate measure to contain contagion and protect the living from the terrors of the plague.

Later, it became Munich’s central cemetery but bore witness to further tragedy, the burials of over 1,000 Bavarian rebels executed during the ‘Sendling uprising’ of 1705. A neo-Gothic fountain, cast from melted cannon metal, stands within the grounds as a solemn memorial to this fateful event.

Now Munich’s oldest surviving burial ground, Alter Südfriedhof has transformed into one of the city’s most evocative garden cemeteries, where life and death seem to converge in beauty and decay. Beneath the canopy of ancient trees, winding paths lead through overgrown wildflowers and tangled undergrowth, leading visitors into the heart of this open-air museum of funerary art.

Under the orders of King Ludwig I, the cemetery was redesigned in the 19th century by Gustav Vorherr and Friedrich von Sckell, who drew inspiration from Italy’s Campo Santo style. Their unique vision produced a space which feels both sacred and tranquil, a place where art, nature and history intertwine.

Many of the grander monuments, and in my opinion most intriguing, date back to the 17th and 18th centuries and can be found within the oldest section of the cemetery, located at the most secluded southern edge. The artworks which stand against the tall brick walls and are sheltered by the moss-covered arches include many memento mori symbols such as winged skulls, hourglasses and extinguished torches.

Yet, this garden of the dead comes alive with unexpected life. Wildflowers bloom defiantly between the gravestones; squirrels dart across the dense foliage and birdsong drifts from the branches above.

As you wander through its shadowed passages you’ll encounter the time-worn graves of poets, architects, and revolutionaries. Although many stones bear inscriptions so eroded that no name remains, a poignant reminder to take a moment to pause, reflect and embrace the fleeting nature of time.

Tip: Don’t miss the skull and crossbones gravestone tucked behind the church, a quiet sentinel watching over the grounds.