Most people visit the Basilica of Santa Maria in Cosmedin to witness the Bocca della Verità known as ‘The Mouth of Truth’, which is located under the arched portico outside of this medieval church. It is said that if a person places their hand in the mouth of the oracle and lies then the lips of the bearded faun will close and cut off their hand. The attraction can draw big groups of tourists, all curiously waiting to have their photo taken so depending on the time you arrive, it can sometimes take a while to access the interior of the church (which in my opinion is the main reason to visit).

The skull of St. Valentine can be found within a golden glass reliquary in the side altar situated along the left of the church. Dressed beautifully with a garland of flowers and hand painted with ‘San Valentino’ across the forehead, the skull is attributed to the patron saint of lovers - St. Valentine. Yet the exact owner of the skull is still a mystery. According to early sources within the Catholic Church there were multiple saints who were all called ‘Valentino’, so unfortunately, it’s not possible to say which person the skull can be attributed to, but nevertheless it reflects perfectly the image of Saint Valentine as the patron of love, young people and happy marriages.

Beneath the main altar you can also discover the eighth century crypt dug on the orders of Pope Hadrian. This underground space hosts a small altar and niches along the walls, which were built to store relics and funerary urns.

Other interesting points to note in the church are the divine Cosmatesque mosaic floors, the medieval frescos and the ornate sacred hearts housed within glass cabinets in a small chapel to the right of the nave.

 As you pass the gift shop, make sure to look up to your right to see the carving of a flying skull placed carefully atop of a walled gravestone.