The macabre funeral monument to Alessandro Valtrini is located within San Lorenzo in Damaso and was designed by the Italian artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1639. The cenotaph is known to have broken new ground in its representation of death, showcasing as it does a life size flying skeleton carrying a medallion-shaped portrait of Alessandro Valrtrini placed against a black marble curtain. It was commissioned by Cardinal Francesco Barberini to commemorate Valtrini who was a major benefactor of the church, making many donations during his lifetime. You can find the carving on your right, just behind the door as you enter from Piazza della Cancelleria.

Due to its lack of windows the rest of the gilded interior is rather dark and moody and includes other interesting pieces of art which have luckily been left untouched over the years. It is believed that the church was founded in the home of Pope St Damasus at the end of the 4th century until it was completely rebuilt at the end of the 15th century by Bramante, before it was used as stables for Napoleon’s French army. It was restored again in 1807 with quite drastic changes which transformed it back to its previous Renaissance style. It is also said to be built on a Roman Mithraeum, which is an underground temple of the mysterious god Mithras.

The church is pretty much invisible from the street as it is housed within the complex of the Palazzo della Cancelleria which is now a historical landmark and museum. Below the main altar the relics of Pope Eutychian and Pope Damasus are kept and above the altar hangs a medieval crucifix which looks to be floating in mid-air. Also keep an eye out for the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, which holds a monument to Pellegrino Rossi - the prime minister who was assassinated in 1848 just outside the building.